Cosmetics

13 pages, 1874 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Sebum Control and Safety for Daily Use of a Cosmetic Elastomer Formulated with Vegetable Oils from Peruvian Biodiversity

by Patricia Lozada, Lourdes Victoria-Tinoco, Ana María Muñoz and Jorge Rojas

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 66; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020066 - 2 Apr 2025

Abstract

This study aimed to evaluate the daily use safety and instrumental efficacy for sebum control of a cosmetic elastomer-type formulation containing the vegetable seed oils of Plukenetia huayllabambana, Physalis peruviana L., and Bertholletia excelsa. Assessments were conducted using a skin irritation [...] Read more.

This study aimed to evaluate the daily use safety and instrumental efficacy for sebum control of a cosmetic elastomer-type formulation containing the vegetable seed oils of Plukenetia huayllabambana, Physalis peruviana L., and Bertholletia excelsa. Assessments were conducted using a skin irritation index and the Sebumeter^® SM 815 from Courage + Khazaka Electronics GmbH, Cologne, Germany. Sebum control efficacy was determined in three groups of volunteers seated in a room at a temperature of 26 ± 1 °C. The forehead area was divided into two sections: one received the cosmetic elastomer while the other area received no product. The elastomer significantly reduced sebum levels in all three groups at 2, 4, and 5 h (p < 0.05) compared to the untreated area, and the third group exhibited higher sebum reductions, with 43.48%, 52.43%, and 43.95%, respectively. In conclusion, the dermatologically tested and safe cosmetic product contains a balanced combination of active ingredients that effectively control sebum levels, resulting in visibly oil-free skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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Graphical abstract

18 pages, 2542 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Design and Characterisation of Personal Hygiene Gels Containing a Gypsophila Trichotoma Extract and Xanthium Strumarium Essential Oil

by Aleksandar Shkondrov, Denitsa Momekova, Maya Margaritova Zaharieva, Hristo Najdenski, Ekaterina Kozuharova and Ilina Krasteva

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 65; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020065 - 31 Mar 2025

Abstract

The aim was to develop a series of handwashing gels containing a standardised extract of the aerial part of Gypsophila trichotoma as well as an essential oil from Xanthium strumarium fruits. The saponins present in the extract are a suitable alternative to synthetic [...] Read more.

The aim was to develop a series of handwashing gels containing a standardised extract of the aerial part of Gypsophila trichotoma as well as an essential oil from Xanthium strumarium fruits. The saponins present in the extract are a suitable alternative to synthetic sulphate surfactants and have better skin tolerance, and with the addition of essential oil, a higher antibacterial activity of the gels thus developed is achieved. The elaborated gels were characterised by good spreadability and a pH close to the physiological for healthy skin (pH 5.5), which is a prerequisite for improved skin tolerability. The dynamic rheological studies showed that the extract fraction increase was not associated with gel viscosity change, and it was only a function of the gelling agent concentration. The gels’ foam-forming ability increased with the increasing extract concentrations. The comparative evaluation of the antibacterial activity of elaborated gels vs. plain gel based on coco glucoside against a panel of selected pathogens demonstrated that the newly developed formulations have superior antibacterial effects. Based on the good technological characteristics and the results of antimicrobial testing of the washing gels thus developed, it can be concluded that they are promising candidates as personal hygiene products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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17 pages, 8388 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of Culture Medium-Based and Topical Anti-Pollution Treatments on PM-Induced Skin Damage Using a Human Ex Vivo Model

by Kanyakorn Namchantra, Ratjika Wongwanakul and Wannita Klinngam

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 64; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020064 - 31 Mar 2025

Abstract

Particulate matter (PM) is a significant pollutant that induces oxidative stress, inflammation, and structural skin damage, contributing to premature aging and reduced skin integrity. In this study, PM was applied topically to human ex vivo skin tissues to simulate real-world exposure, while test [...] Read more.

Particulate matter (PM) is a significant pollutant that induces oxidative stress, inflammation, and structural skin damage, contributing to premature aging and reduced skin integrity. In this study, PM was applied topically to human ex vivo skin tissues to simulate real-world exposure, while test compounds were delivered using the culture medium to mimic systemic absorption or applied topically for direct surface treatment. Culture medium-based treatments included indomethacin, L-ascorbic acid, and rapamycin, whereas topical treatment involved retinol and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). PM exposure increased hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), interleukin 6 (IL-6), matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), and prostaglandin E₂ (PGE-2), while decreasing collagen type I and hyaluronic acid (HYA). Culture medium-based treatments improved collagen and reduced MMP-1 and COX-2 expression, with L-ascorbic acid and rapamycin lowering PGE-2, and indomethacin and rapamycin restoring HYA. L-ascorbic acid uniquely reduced IL-6. Topical treatments, including retinol and EGCG, effectively reduced H₂O₂ and MMP-1 and restored collagen type I. While both agents exhibited antioxidant activity, retinol further reduced IL-6, emphasizing its anti-inflammatory role. These results highlight the complementary protective effects of systemic-like and topical treatments in mitigating PM-induced skin damage. Future research should optimize protocols and validate efficacy under real-world conditions to enhance skin protection in polluted environments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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29 pages, 1199 KiB

Open AccessReview

Exhaustive Analytical Profiling of Phytocompounds in Botanical Active Ingredients: Fighting the Global Prevalence of Adulterated Botanical Ingredients for Cosmetics

by Jean-Marie Botto, Loïc Loffredo, Gopinathan K. Menon, Pierre Champy and Francis Hadji-Minaglou

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 63; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020063 - 31 Mar 2025

Abstract

Traditional herbal medicine, ethnopharmacology, and evidence-based phytotherapy inspire the development of botanical active ingredients for cosmetics. Ensuring their authenticity and quality is essential in guaranteeing the safety and efficacy of cosmetic formulations. However, the industry faces challenges related to adulteration and inconsistent verification [...] Read more.

Traditional herbal medicine, ethnopharmacology, and evidence-based phytotherapy inspire the development of botanical active ingredients for cosmetics. Ensuring their authenticity and quality is essential in guaranteeing the safety and efficacy of cosmetic formulations. However, the industry faces challenges related to adulteration and inconsistent verification practices. Adulteration can occur at both the crude raw material stage and during processing, involving misidentification, contamination, or the addition of unauthorized substances. This review emphasizes the need for robust authentication methods, including botanical identification, genetic testing, and phytochemical/metabolomic profiling. Analytical tools such as UV/VIS spectroscopy, HPTLC, GC-MS, HPLC/UHPLC, and isotope analysis provide complementary data for detecting and addressing adulteration. Adulteration jeopardizes product safety, efficacy, regulatory compliance, and consumer trust, while dilutions or substitutions erode the intended health benefits. A standardized, comprehensive approach across the supply chain—from raw material sourcing to extract manufacturing—is critical for maintaining the integrity of botanical ingredients. Cosmetovigilance and nutrivigilance are crucial aspects of ensuring product safety and compliance. This review presents a novel perspective by highlighting that, while the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries have long recognized the risks of botanical adulteration, awareness in the cosmetics industry remains limited. It further integrates recent advancements in metabolomic profiling, global regulatory challenges, and the economic implications of botanical adulteration in cosmetics. Future developments in AI-driven authentication technologies may represent a promising solution for addressing evolving challenges in product safety and traceability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 2020 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unveiling the Biological Properties of Rosa rubiginosa L. Leaf Extract as a Bio-Functional Ingredient Based on 2D Cell-Based Models and In Vitro Assessments

by Sophia Letsiou, Aliki Tsakni, Dionysis Antonopoulos, Alexandros Tsoupras and Dimitra Houhoula

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020062 - 31 Mar 2025

Abstract

Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as [...] Read more.

Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as a bio-functional agent in cosmeceuticals or nutraceuticals. The Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract demonstrated strong scavenging activity and high phenolic content protection while also preventing DNA breakage. At the molecular level, ATP determination revealed that the Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf confers cell viability even under oxidative stress. Gene expression analysis uncovered its protective effects on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts due to its strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory response under oxidative stress induced by UVA irradiation. These findings suggest that Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract provides significant in vitro biological properties in cell-based models, offering new insights into its potential benefits and underscoring its bio-functional role. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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12 pages, 1818 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Cell Phototoxicity and Photoprotection Study of Agro-Derived Lignin and Nanocellulose

by Juliana Varella Cruz, Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Julia Salles Gava, Washington Luiz Esteves Magalhães, Danielle Palma de Oliveira, Daniela Morais Leme, Montserrat Mitjans and Maria Pilar Vinardell

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 61; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020061 - 28 Mar 2025

Abstract

Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy [...] Read more.

Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy and safety parameters, such as their photoprotection mechanisms and phototoxicity, need to be investigated. Therefore, two kraft lignin fractions, LE and R1, along with a kraft-bleached pulp CNF, were evaluated for their phototoxicity and photoprotection mechanisms, both using the HaCaT cell line (immortalized human keratinocytes) as the in vitro model. Phototoxicity assessment involved exposing cells to UVA radiation (4 J/cm²), with the subsequent comparison of cell viability between irradiated and non-irradiated samples. ROS quantification was performed using a 2′,7′-dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCF-DA) probe, with fluorescence intensity measurements, and was then used to evaluate the photoprotection effect. The results demonstrated that both LE and R1 exhibited concentration-dependent increases in phototoxicity, whereas CNF showed no phototoxic effects under the conditions tested. For photoprotection, LE, R1, and CNF reduced UV-induced ROS production, a result which could be associated with antioxidant properties in the case of the lignin fractions. These findings suggest that both lignin fractions and CNF hold promise for use in renewable and sustainable cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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1 pages, 111 KiB

Open AccessEditorial

Cosmetics: Three New Journal Sections Established

by Enzo Berardesca

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 60; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020060 - 28 Mar 2025

Abstract

The journal Cosmetics is a platform dedicated to the science and technology of cosmetics [...] Full article

17 pages, 4807 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Recombinant Type XVII Collagen Inhibits EGFR/MAPK/AP-1 and Activates TGF-β/Smad Signaling to Enhance Collagen Secretion and Reduce Photoaging

by Ying He, Shiyu Yin, Ru Xu, Yan Zhao, Yuhang Du, Zhiguang Duan and Daidi Fan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020059 - 27 Mar 2025

Abstract

Studies have consistently shown that long-wave ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation triggers skin photoaging, which is evident as reduced elasticity, a loss of firmness, and signs of aging. There is an urgent need to investigate photoaging mechanisms to devise protective strategies against UVA. The [...] Read more.

Studies have consistently shown that long-wave ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation triggers skin photoaging, which is evident as reduced elasticity, a loss of firmness, and signs of aging. There is an urgent need to investigate photoaging mechanisms to devise protective strategies against UVA. The present study aimed to explore the effects of recombinant type XVII collagen on UVA-induced skin aging and uncover its molecular mechanisms, thereby laying a solid theoretical foundation for precise treatments and prevention. We therefore modeled photoaging damage in HaCaT cells and evaluated collagen-related protein and gene expression levels via western blot analysis and real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction analysis. Immunofluorescent staining was also used to assess collagen secretion and basement membrane protein expression. Recombinant type XVII collagen significantly boosted type IV and type XVII collagen, laminin alpha 5, and integrin β1 production, thus counteracting UVA-induced collagen decline. The polymerase chain reaction analysis revealed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) downregulation and tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP) upregulation. Modulating the transforming growth factor (TGF)-β/Smad and epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR)/mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1) pathways suppressed photoaging. Together, our findings suggest that recombinant type XVII collagen ameliorates UVA-induced damage by reversing MMP and TIMP gene expression, thereby preventing collagen degradation and enhancing basement membrane secretion. These results offer a theoretical basis for potent anti-photoaging products, thus paving the way for innovative solutions against UVA-induced skin aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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21 pages, 3547 KiB

Open AccessArticle

A Novel, Multifunctional, Natural-Based Emollient: An Exhaustive Characterization of Sharofeel DS

by Francesco Puzzo, Melania Di Liberto, Gabriele Valente, Roberta Maria Donadelli, Giangiacomo Beretta and Fabrizio Gelmini

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 58; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020058 - 27 Mar 2025

Abstract

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble ingredients used in cosmetic products. This study aims to define the chemical and physical characteristics and test the activities of a new ester-based emollient, Sharofeel DS (DS), in comparison with other commonly used emollients (fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone [...] Read more.

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble ingredients used in cosmetic products. This study aims to define the chemical and physical characteristics and test the activities of a new ester-based emollient, Sharofeel DS (DS), in comparison with other commonly used emollients (fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone emollients). The new entity was synthesized from naturally derived reactants and designed to be utilized in different cosmetic applications, such as skin care, hair care, and makeup. Methods: The emollient was characterized on the basis of its physical properties (Ultraviolet/Infrared (UV/IR) analysis, density, dynamic viscosity, refractive index, surface tension, and contact angle), calorimetric properties by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential scanning calorimetry analysis (DSC), viscoelastic properties as is and in emulsion, and toxicity tests. According to the results obtained, DS demonstrated density (0.881 g/mL) and viscosity (86 cPs) values comparable to fatty alcohol emollients, with a refractive index (1.457) comparable to fatty alcohol and ester-based emollients and a surface tension (22.53 mN/m ± 0.11 mN/m) similar to the ester-based ones. It proved stable below 308 °C and capable of reducing the loss of internal water from hair strands (−7.5% w/w). Lastly, the toxicity tests proved that DS is safe for topical skincare, haircare, and makeup applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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19 pages, 3796 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring Skin Longevity Pathways: Rosa hybrid Extract-Mediated AMP-Activated Protein Kinase Activation, Antioxidant, and Autophagic Mechanisms in Human Keratinocytes

by Olivier Gouin, Andrea Cavagnino, Gayané Azadiguian, Sibylle Jäger, Gilles Comte, Mohammed Bendahmane, Lionel Breton, Martin A. Baraibar and Annie F. Black

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020057 - 25 Mar 2025

Abstract

The skin is continuously exposed to environmental changes, rendering it vulnerable to damage from external stressors that contribute to premature skin aging. This study aims to explore skin longevity pathways stimulated by a rose extract (RE) derived from petals. Human keratinocytes treated with [...] Read more.

The skin is continuously exposed to environmental changes, rendering it vulnerable to damage from external stressors that contribute to premature skin aging. This study aims to explore skin longevity pathways stimulated by a rose extract (RE) derived from petals. Human keratinocytes treated with RE exhibited a significant increase in NRF2 (NF-E2-related factor 2; ≈2–4% of induction) and LAMP2A (Lysosome-Associated Membrane Protein 2A; ≈6–12% of induction) levels. The presence of RE significantly mitigated the increase in carbonylation levels (≈34–37% of protection) and the number of labeled P16^INK4A cells (≈60–72% of protection), associated with proliferation arrest, both induced by exposure to BAP (Benzo[a]pyrene) coupled with UV-A (Ultraviolet A) irradiation. The beneficial effects mediated by RE were inhibited by Compound C, a specific AMPK inhibitor (AMP-activated protein kinase). The involvement of the AMPK pathway in mediating the beneficial effects of RE has been confirmed by assessing its activation through the evaluation of its phosphorylation state which was significantly elevated in the presence of RE compared to the stress condition. In conclusion, the activation of the AMPK pathway enhances antioxidant defenses and promotes autophagy. This dual action, mediated by RE, helps protect skin cells from oxidative damage and senescence while maintaining proteostasis, skin integrity, and cellular proliferation under pollution-induced stress (BAP + UV-A). These findings highlight the potential in mitigating age-related skin changes through the modulation of longevity pathways. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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22 pages, 1270 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Assessment of Sustainability Indicators for Cosmetic Product Packaging in the DACH Region

by Michelle Klein, Anna Oleynikova, Charlotte Neumair, Manfred Tacker and Silvia Apprich

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 56; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020056 - 24 Mar 2025

Abstract

The rapid expansion of the cosmetic products market, growing consumer eco-consciousness, and stricter packaging regulations, such as the PPWR, present significant challenges for the cosmetic industry. To assess the sustainability of cosmetic packaging, a benchmarking study was conducted across various product categories available [...] Read more.

The rapid expansion of the cosmetic products market, growing consumer eco-consciousness, and stricter packaging regulations, such as the PPWR, present significant challenges for the cosmetic industry. To assess the sustainability of cosmetic packaging, a benchmarking study was conducted across various product categories available in the DACH region (Germany, Austria, and Switzerland) using a set of selected indicators. The findings highlight an urgent need for action to ensure compliance with future PPWR requirements. While glass and aluminum packaging demonstrated high recyclability, plastic tubes often failed to meet the 70% recyclability target due to incompatible material combinations. Key barriers to recyclability included material incompatibility, metallization, and excessive colorization. Additionally, the use of recycled content in plastic and paper-based packaging was generally low, with only a few samples containing secondary materials. Other critical issues included packaging efficiency, the widespread use of secondary packaging, and use of uncertified renewable materials. Addressing these challenges will require industry-wide efforts to enhance material compatibility, increase recycled content, and optimize packaging design for greater sustainability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

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21 pages, 1498 KiB

Open AccessArticle

NAMICA Encapsulation Technology in an Animal Model: MICROscale vs. NANOscale Hyaluronic Acid Particles in Skin Remodeling (Part 2)

by Pavel Burko, George Sulamanidze and Dmitriy Nikishin

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 55; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020055 - 21 Mar 2025

Abstract

Hyaluronic acid (HA), an integral non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan, plays a pivotal role in numerous biological functions within the extracellular matrix, crucially influencing tissue hydration and cellular activities. These findings position it as a key substance in both aesthetic interventions and regenerative medicine. This study [...] Read more.

Hyaluronic acid (HA), an integral non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan, plays a pivotal role in numerous biological functions within the extracellular matrix, crucially influencing tissue hydration and cellular activities. These findings position it as a key substance in both aesthetic interventions and regenerative medicine. This study evaluated the skin remodeling efficacy of poly(L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) (P(LA/CL)) threads embedded with HA particles at both the microscale (P(LA/CL)-HA-micro) and nanoscale (P(LA/CL)-HA-nano) utilizing NAMICA encapsulation technology. This investigation was conducted over a six-month period in an animal model. These threads were engineered to administer HA gradually, thereby potentially augmenting the therapeutic impacts on the skin, enhancing the bioavailability of HA, and prolonging the benefits. Methodologically, the research conformed to the ARRIVE guidelines, incorporating specific inclusion and exclusion criteria for the animal model. The threads were surgically implanted, and a series of histological indicators were evaluated at scheduled intervals to determine their influence on the structural properties of the skin. The findings indicated that both P(LA/CL)-HA-micro and P(LA/CL)-HA-nano threads demonstrated potential in skin remodeling. Notably, the P(LA/CL)-HA-nano threads may have provided some advantages in enhancing certain structural aspects of the skin. The integration of micro- and nano-HA formulations through NAMICA technology might address individual limitations and synergistically promote biorevitalization in skin remodeling. Nevertheless, the intricate interactions between the biomaterials and hosted tissue underscored in this analysis suggest that additional investigations, especially using human models, are essential to fully discern the clinical implications and refine therapeutic approaches for skin remodeling via these new technologies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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13 pages, 3383 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Clinical Efficacy of Adiponectin-Stimulating Peptide on UV-Induced Skin Damage

by Yongwoo Kim, Seokjeong Yoon, Sungwoo Kim, Yeonjae Kim, Sekyoo Jeong and Hyun-jung Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 54; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020054 - 18 Mar 2025

Abstract

Several studies have suggested that adiponectin is an anti-aging molecule based on its potential involvement of adipose tissue in skin aging. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging efficacy of an adiponectin expression-stimulating peptide derivative, pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl hexanoyl dipeptide-12 (PTHD-12), in in vitro [...] Read more.

Several studies have suggested that adiponectin is an anti-aging molecule based on its potential involvement of adipose tissue in skin aging. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging efficacy of an adiponectin expression-stimulating peptide derivative, pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl hexanoyl dipeptide-12 (PTHD-12), in in vitro and ex vivo human skin explant models. A double-blind, randomized, comparator placebo-controlled study was performed to confirm clinical efficacy. After irradiation with 50 mJ/cm² of UVB, a UV-induced decrease in adiponectin expression and an increase in inflammatory cytokines in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were prevented by the PTHD-12 treatment test peptide. Mitigation of cellular senescence and senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) expressions induced by UVB (50 mJ/cm²) exposure were also mitigated by the post-treatment of PTHD-12, which was also observed in an ex vivo human skin explant model. The restoration of filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin-1 protein expression in a cultured human skin explant was observed. A clinical study further confirmed that the restoration of UVB-induced skin damage, represented by increased skin redness and trans-epidermal water loss, was accelerated by the use of test peptide PTHD-12-containing products. These results suggest that targeting adiponectin may be a plausible strategy for the development of anti-aging ingredients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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14 pages, 984 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Public Perception and Usage Trends of Essential Oils: Findings from a Nationwide Survey

by Stanislava Ivanova, Radiana Staynova, Nina Koleva, Kalin Ivanov and Daniela Grekova-Kafalova

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 53; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020053 - 17 Mar 2025

Abstract

In recent years, an increasing demand for natural products for personal care, cosmetics, supplementation, and the treatment of different conditions has been reported worldwide. At the same time, the global essential oil (EO) market was valued at more than 23 billion per year [...] Read more.

In recent years, an increasing demand for natural products for personal care, cosmetics, supplementation, and the treatment of different conditions has been reported worldwide. At the same time, the global essential oil (EO) market was valued at more than 23 billion per year in the last two years and is expected to grow significantly in the next five years. The purpose of this study was to explore the use of EOs in daily life, including frequency, preferences, and health-related outcomes among Bulgarian adults. The respondents and their responses remained anonymous as the survey was conducted online in January 2025. The study was associated with some important findings: usage of essential oils among Bulgarian adults is widespread (68.7% of the respondents use essential oils); secondly, we found that EO usage had a statistically greater association with younger age, higher education, and female sex. Most of the consumers of EOs did not report any side effects after use. However, 4.0% reported contact dermatitis and allergic reactions after the application of EOs. Most respondents (86.3% of the EO users) believe that repellents based on EOs provide good protection. It was established that Bulgarian adults use EOs for various applications: skin care, general wellness, aromatherapy, and as repellents. Most of the consumers of EOs would recommend EOs to other people. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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14 pages, 1244 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Oral Intake and Topical Application of Hyaluronic Acid Ameliorates Skin Aging Signs: Efficacy Results of a Placebo-Controlled In&Out Trial

by Vincenzo Nobile, Gloria Roveda, Eleonora Spartà and Francesco Tursi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 52; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020052 - 17 Mar 2025

Abstract

Hyaluronic acid (HA) content in the skin progressively decreases with age; thus, its supplementation—either topical, oral, and by subcutaneous injection—represents a first-line intervention to ameliorate skin aging signs. The present multicenter randomized placebo-controlled trial (RCT) evaluated the skin antiaging efficacy of an In&Out [...] Read more.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) content in the skin progressively decreases with age; thus, its supplementation—either topical, oral, and by subcutaneous injection—represents a first-line intervention to ameliorate skin aging signs. The present multicenter randomized placebo-controlled trial (RCT) evaluated the skin antiaging efficacy of an In&Out treatment, i.e., a concomitant topical, through a cosmetic cream, and the oral administration of specifically designed HAs, full-spectrum HAs (FS-HAs), in a multiethnic population using instrumental measurements and clinical assessments. The efficacy of FS-HAs was also evaluated in groups receiving FS-HA in a single administration route and in the presence of the placebo in the counterpart route. The above treatment scheme was applied for 56 days to 88 adult subjects, equally divided into four groups. Treatments containing at least one FS-HA molecule showed progressive and significant intragroup ameliorations of all the instrumental skin parameters evaluated. The In&Out treatment resulted in a greater improvement with respect to the two other active groups and in significant intergroup differences with respect to its placebo counterpart. FS-HA treatments resulted, as well, in the significant improvements of clinical parameters that correlated with the subjects’ appreciation recorded by a self-assessment, hence confirming that the In&Out administration of FS-HA represents an interesting approach to counteract skin aging signs. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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24 pages, 1406 KiB

Open AccessReview

Mechanistic Insights into Pigmented Rice Bran in Mitigating UV-Induced Oxidative Stress, Inflammation, and Pigmentation

by Tao Zhang, Hua-Li Zuo, Yue Liu, Hsi-Yuan Huang, Shang-Fu Li, Jing Li, Li-Ping Li, Yi-Gang Chen, Ting-Syuan Lin, Sheng-Han Huang, Yang-Chi-Dung Lin and Hsien-Da Huang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 51; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020051 - 14 Mar 2025

Abstract

As an agri-food by-product, the rice bran of pigmented rice, encompassing varieties such as red, black, and purple rice, has garnered increasing attention due to its richness in terms of bioactive compounds. Being mainly composed of the pericarp, aleuron, seed coat, and germ, [...] Read more.

As an agri-food by-product, the rice bran of pigmented rice, encompassing varieties such as red, black, and purple rice, has garnered increasing attention due to its richness in terms of bioactive compounds. Being mainly composed of the pericarp, aleuron, seed coat, and germ, the brown outer layer of the rice kernel offers potential health benefits and has applications in skincare. Human skin serves as the primary barrier against external threats, including pathogens, pollutants, and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Notably, UV radiation accelerates the aging process and contributes to various skin issues. Recent trends suggest a heightened interest in incorporating pigmented rice into skincare regimens, motivated by its potential to mitigate oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation, which are pivotal factors in skin aging and photodamage. With increasing consumer demand for natural and sustainable ingredients, pigmented rice has emerged as a promising candidate within the skincare and personal care sectors, effectively bridging the gap between nutrition and dermatological health. This review examines the applications of pigmented rice in skincare, with a particular focus on its bioactive components and potential mechanisms of action that contribute to skin health. The unique chemical composition of pigmented rice, which includes compounds such as anthocyanins, flavonoids, phenolic acids, and vitamin E, underlies its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective properties. Despite the increasing recognition of its benefits, a comprehensive understanding of the underlying mechanisms remains limited, underscoring the necessity for further research to exploit the potential of pigmented rice in skincare applications fully. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)

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16 pages, 4614 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Production and Characterization of Semi-Solid Formulations for the Delivery of the Cosmetic Peptide Palmitoyl-GHK

by Valentyn Dzyhovskyi, Federico Santamaria, Erika Marzola, Leda Montesi, Irene Donelli, Stefano Manfredini, Remo Guerrini and Elisabetta Esposito

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 50; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020050 - 13 Mar 2025

Abstract

In this study, vesicular lipid systems and semi-solid formulations for the skin application of Palmitoyl-GHK were formulated and characterized. Palmitoyl-GHK is a cosmetic peptide with anti-aging action, capable of treating the signs of skin aging by mainly stimulating collagen synthesis in the dermis. [...] Read more.

In this study, vesicular lipid systems and semi-solid formulations for the skin application of Palmitoyl-GHK were formulated and characterized. Palmitoyl-GHK is a cosmetic peptide with anti-aging action, capable of treating the signs of skin aging by mainly stimulating collagen synthesis in the dermis. The so-called “ethosomes” were evaluated as nanovesicular systems constituted of phosphatidylcholine, organized in vesicles, ethanol, and water. In addition, semi-solid systems were produced and characterized, namely an organogel based on phosphatidylcholine, isopropyl palmitate, and water, a gel based on Poloxamer 407, and the poloxamer organogel, created by combining organogel and Poloxamer gel. To make the ethosomal dispersions suitable for skin application, xanthan gum was added as a gelling agent. Studies were therefore carried out on semi-solid formulations to determine (i) the spreadability, a key factor that influences various aspects of a topical/transdermal formulation, (ii) the occlusive factor, important to guarantee good effectiveness of a dermocosmetic product, and finally, (iii) the hydrating power, to study the effect of a formulation applied to the skin. A formulation study enabled the selection of the most suitable formulations for the incorporation of the active ingredient of interest. Palmitoyl-GHK was found to be soluble both in ethosomes and in the poloxamer organogel. In vitro studies were therefore conducted to evaluate the release kinetics of Palmitoyl-GHK from the formulations, via Franz cells. The qualitative–quantitative analysis, through analytical HPLC, highlighted that the active ingredient is released more slowly from semi-solid formulations compared to vesicular systems; in particular, the presence of poloxamer allows a controlled release of the peptide. Further studies will be necessary to verify the anti-aging efficacy of formulations containing the peptide. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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1 pages, 444 KiB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Su, E.; Herman, S. Beyond Sulfate-Free Personal Cleansing Technology. Cosmetics 2025, 12, 14

by Evelyn Su and Stephen Herman

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 49; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020049 - 13 Mar 2025

Abstract

Error in Figure/Table [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Chinese American Cosmetic Professional Association (CACPA)—a Collaborative and Inclusive Platform for Research and Education of Cosmetic and Personal Care Products)

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15 pages, 2546 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unraveling the Molecular Mechanisms of Synthetic Acetyl Hexapeptide in E-Cadherin Activation for Tissue Rejuvenation

by Nikoleta Topouzidou, Androulla N. Miliotou, Danai Nodaraki, Eleftheria Galatou, Christos Petrou and Yiannis Sarigiannis

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 48; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020048 - 12 Mar 2025

Abstract

Objective: Dermo-cosmetics have significantly advanced, focusing on innovative and effective products such as cosmeceuticals—cosmetics infused with bioactive ingredients for skin benefits. Synthetic peptides are prominent among these bioactive molecules, noted for their enhanced effects in cellular processes related to skin physiology. Specifically, the [...] Read more.

Objective: Dermo-cosmetics have significantly advanced, focusing on innovative and effective products such as cosmeceuticals—cosmetics infused with bioactive ingredients for skin benefits. Synthetic peptides are prominent among these bioactive molecules, noted for their enhanced effects in cellular processes related to skin physiology. Specifically, the glycoprotein E-cadherin plays a crucial role in cellular adhesion and has shown promise in wound healing studies, although its broader cellular functions remain underexplored. Despite their widespread use, many cosmetic peptides lack genetic validation of their effects. This study focuses on the synthetic, amphiphilic acetyl hexapeptide-1, aimed to possess wound healing and anti-aging properties, with a novel exploration of its molecular mechanisms, specifically its effect on the expression of the CDH-1 gene, which encodes E-cadherin—a key protein in cellular adhesion and wound healing. Methods: In this investigation, the acetyl hexapeptide-1 was synthesized in house, followed by cell culture assessment and molecular evaluation. Human hepatocytes HepG2 were exposed to the synthetic hexapeptide to assess cytotoxic effects and examine its impact on gene expression, specifically targeting the wound healing-associated gene CDH-1, as well as apoptosis-related genes BAX, Bcl-2, Caspase-9, and Cyclin D1. Results: No cytotoxic effects were observed in cell cultures. Gene expression analysis revealed a significant increase in E-cadherin expression, along with the NO modulation of apoptosis-related genes (BAX, Bcl-2, Caspase-9) and the cell cycle-related gene Cyclin D1. These findings suggest peptide’s role in enhancing cellular adhesion, without any cytotoxic effects. Conclusions: The findings of this study provide promising insights into the potential molecular properties of synthetic acetyl hexapeptide-1, implying its applicability in cosmeceuticals. These cosmetic peptides hold enormous potential and diverse applications not only within skincare. To fully understand their benefits and expand their scope, additional investigations are warranted to comprehensively explore their molecular mechanisms across a spectrum of applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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