Search Results (1,122)

The study of the fungal communities of the skin constitutes a pivotal component of skin microbiome research. Within these communities, the genus Malassezia stands out as a major constituent, representing 50% to 80% of the total fungal colonization on the skin of healthy individuals. The excessive growth or metabolic irregularities of this genus are intimately connected with the onset of various skin disorders that are intrinsically linked to its lipid-dependent nature. Cutaneous lipid metabolism is indispensable for maintaining the skin barrier function and skin health. Malassezia possesses the ability to encode multiple lipase genes, and the secretion of these lipases plays a pivotal role in the survival strategies of the fungi. This review explores recent advances in the ecological niche of Malassezia in skin microecological homeostasis, its mechanism of disrupting skin lipids through catabolic metabolites, and the relationship between this disruption of the skin lipid barrier and skin diseases. This review offers a reference for future research on the mechanisms by which Malassezia affects lipid metabolism and provides a theoretical foundation for the development of innovative therapeutic approaches for dermatological conditions. Full article

This study aimed to evaluate the daily use safety and instrumental efficacy for sebum control of a cosmetic elastomer-type formulation containing the vegetable seed oils of Plukenetia huayllabambana, Physalis peruviana L., and Bertholletia excelsa. Assessments were conducted using a skin irritation index and the Sebumeter^® SM 815 from Courage + Khazaka Electronics GmbH, Cologne, Germany. Sebum control efficacy was determined in three groups of volunteers seated in a room at a temperature of 26 ± 1 °C. The forehead area was divided into two sections: one received the cosmetic elastomer while the other area received no product. The elastomer significantly reduced sebum levels in all three groups at 2, 4, and 5 h (p < 0.05) compared to the untreated area, and the third group exhibited higher sebum reductions, with 43.48%, 52.43%, and 43.95%, respectively. In conclusion, the dermatologically tested and safe cosmetic product contains a balanced combination of active ingredients that effectively control sebum levels, resulting in visibly oil-free skin. Full article

The aim was to develop a series of handwashing gels containing a standardised extract of the aerial part of Gypsophila trichotoma as well as an essential oil from Xanthium strumarium fruits. The saponins present in the extract are a suitable alternative to synthetic sulphate surfactants and have better skin tolerance, and with the addition of essential oil, a higher antibacterial activity of the gels thus developed is achieved. The elaborated gels were characterised by good spreadability and a pH close to the physiological for healthy skin (pH 5.5), which is a prerequisite for improved skin tolerability. The dynamic rheological studies showed that the extract fraction increase was not associated with gel viscosity change, and it was only a function of the gelling agent concentration. The gels’ foam-forming ability increased with the increasing extract concentrations. The comparative evaluation of the antibacterial activity of elaborated gels vs. plain gel based on coco glucoside against a panel of selected pathogens demonstrated that the newly developed formulations have superior antibacterial effects. Based on the good technological characteristics and the results of antimicrobial testing of the washing gels thus developed, it can be concluded that they are promising candidates as personal hygiene products. Full article

Particulate matter (PM) is a significant pollutant that induces oxidative stress, inflammation, and structural skin damage, contributing to premature aging and reduced skin integrity. In this study, PM was applied topically to human ex vivo skin tissues to simulate real-world exposure, while test compounds were delivered using the culture medium to mimic systemic absorption or applied topically for direct surface treatment. Culture medium-based treatments included indomethacin, L-ascorbic acid, and rapamycin, whereas topical treatment involved retinol and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). PM exposure increased hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), interleukin 6 (IL-6), matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), and prostaglandin E₂ (PGE-2), while decreasing collagen type I and hyaluronic acid (HYA). Culture medium-based treatments improved collagen and reduced MMP-1 and COX-2 expression, with L-ascorbic acid and rapamycin lowering PGE-2, and indomethacin and rapamycin restoring HYA. L-ascorbic acid uniquely reduced IL-6. Topical treatments, including retinol and EGCG, effectively reduced H₂O₂ and MMP-1 and restored collagen type I. While both agents exhibited antioxidant activity, retinol further reduced IL-6, emphasizing its anti-inflammatory role. These results highlight the complementary protective effects of systemic-like and topical treatments in mitigating PM-induced skin damage. Future research should optimize protocols and validate efficacy under real-world conditions to enhance skin protection in polluted environments. Full article

Traditional herbal medicine, ethnopharmacology, and evidence-based phytotherapy inspire the development of botanical active ingredients for cosmetics. Ensuring their authenticity and quality is essential in guaranteeing the safety and efficacy of cosmetic formulations. However, the industry faces challenges related to adulteration and inconsistent verification practices. Adulteration can occur at both the crude raw material stage and during processing, involving misidentification, contamination, or the addition of unauthorized substances. This review emphasizes the need for robust authentication methods, including botanical identification, genetic testing, and phytochemical/metabolomic profiling. Analytical tools such as UV/VIS spectroscopy, HPTLC, GC-MS, HPLC/UHPLC, and isotope analysis provide complementary data for detecting and addressing adulteration. Adulteration jeopardizes product safety, efficacy, regulatory compliance, and consumer trust, while dilutions or substitutions erode the intended health benefits. A standardized, comprehensive approach across the supply chain—from raw material sourcing to extract manufacturing—is critical for maintaining the integrity of botanical ingredients. Cosmetovigilance and nutrivigilance are crucial aspects of ensuring product safety and compliance. This review presents a novel perspective by highlighting that, while the pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries have long recognized the risks of botanical adulteration, awareness in the cosmetics industry remains limited. It further integrates recent advancements in metabolomic profiling, global regulatory challenges, and the economic implications of botanical adulteration in cosmetics. Future developments in AI-driven authentication technologies may represent a promising solution for addressing evolving challenges in product safety and traceability. Full article

Natural ingredients have long been utilized to enhance human health. While Rosa rubiginosa L. has been relatively understudied, it is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This study explores its diverse bioactivity on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, highlighting its potential as a bio-functional agent in cosmeceuticals or nutraceuticals. The Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract demonstrated strong scavenging activity and high phenolic content protection while also preventing DNA breakage. At the molecular level, ATP determination revealed that the Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf confers cell viability even under oxidative stress. Gene expression analysis uncovered its protective effects on human primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts due to its strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory response under oxidative stress induced by UVA irradiation. These findings suggest that Rosa rubiginosa L. leaf extract provides significant in vitro biological properties in cell-based models, offering new insights into its potential benefits and underscoring its bio-functional role. Full article

Lignin, a significant industrial byproduct from paper manufacturing processes, exhibits ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorption properties. Cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) demonstrate universal ligand characteristics and represent an innovative approach for converting industrial waste into value-added products. Given their potential applications in cosmetic formulations, their efficacy and safety parameters, such as their photoprotection mechanisms and phototoxicity, need to be investigated. Therefore, two kraft lignin fractions, LE and R1, along with a kraft-bleached pulp CNF, were evaluated for their phototoxicity and photoprotection mechanisms, both using the HaCaT cell line (immortalized human keratinocytes) as the in vitro model. Phototoxicity assessment involved exposing cells to UVA radiation (4 J/cm²), with the subsequent comparison of cell viability between irradiated and non-irradiated samples. ROS quantification was performed using a 2′,7′-dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCF-DA) probe, with fluorescence intensity measurements, and was then used to evaluate the photoprotection effect. The results demonstrated that both LE and R1 exhibited concentration-dependent increases in phototoxicity, whereas CNF showed no phototoxic effects under the conditions tested. For photoprotection, LE, R1, and CNF reduced UV-induced ROS production, a result which could be associated with antioxidant properties in the case of the lignin fractions. These findings suggest that both lignin fractions and CNF hold promise for use in renewable and sustainable cosmetic formulations. Full article

Studies have consistently shown that long-wave ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation triggers skin photoaging, which is evident as reduced elasticity, a loss of firmness, and signs of aging. There is an urgent need to investigate photoaging mechanisms to devise protective strategies against UVA. The present study aimed to explore the effects of recombinant type XVII collagen on UVA-induced skin aging and uncover its molecular mechanisms, thereby laying a solid theoretical foundation for precise treatments and prevention. We therefore modeled photoaging damage in HaCaT cells and evaluated collagen-related protein and gene expression levels via western blot analysis and real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction analysis. Immunofluorescent staining was also used to assess collagen secretion and basement membrane protein expression. Recombinant type XVII collagen significantly boosted type IV and type XVII collagen, laminin alpha 5, and integrin β1 production, thus counteracting UVA-induced collagen decline. The polymerase chain reaction analysis revealed matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) downregulation and tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP) upregulation. Modulating the transforming growth factor (TGF)-β/Smad and epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR)/mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein-1 (AP-1) pathways suppressed photoaging. Together, our findings suggest that recombinant type XVII collagen ameliorates UVA-induced damage by reversing MMP and TIMP gene expression, thereby preventing collagen degradation and enhancing basement membrane secretion. These results offer a theoretical basis for potent anti-photoaging products, thus paving the way for innovative solutions against UVA-induced skin aging. Full article

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble ingredients used in cosmetic products. This study aims to define the chemical and physical characteristics and test the activities of a new ester-based emollient, Sharofeel DS (DS), in comparison with other commonly used emollients (fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone emollients). The new entity was synthesized from naturally derived reactants and designed to be utilized in different cosmetic applications, such as skin care, hair care, and makeup. Methods: The emollient was characterized on the basis of its physical properties (Ultraviolet/Infrared (UV/IR) analysis, density, dynamic viscosity, refractive index, surface tension, and contact angle), calorimetric properties by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential scanning calorimetry analysis (DSC), viscoelastic properties as is and in emulsion, and toxicity tests. According to the results obtained, DS demonstrated density (0.881 g/mL) and viscosity (86 cPs) values comparable to fatty alcohol emollients, with a refractive index (1.457) comparable to fatty alcohol and ester-based emollients and a surface tension (22.53 mN/m ± 0.11 mN/m) similar to the ester-based ones. It proved stable below 308 °C and capable of reducing the loss of internal water from hair strands (−7.5% w/w). Lastly, the toxicity tests proved that DS is safe for topical skincare, haircare, and makeup applications. Full article

The skin is continuously exposed to environmental changes, rendering it vulnerable to damage from external stressors that contribute to premature skin aging. This study aims to explore skin longevity pathways stimulated by a rose extract (RE) derived from petals. Human keratinocytes treated with RE exhibited a significant increase in NRF2 (NF-E2-related factor 2; ≈2–4% of induction) and LAMP2A (Lysosome-Associated Membrane Protein 2A; ≈6–12% of induction) levels. The presence of RE significantly mitigated the increase in carbonylation levels (≈34–37% of protection) and the number of labeled P16^INK4A cells (≈60–72% of protection), associated with proliferation arrest, both induced by exposure to BAP (Benzo[a]pyrene) coupled with UV-A (Ultraviolet A) irradiation. The beneficial effects mediated by RE were inhibited by Compound C, a specific AMPK inhibitor (AMP-activated protein kinase). The involvement of the AMPK pathway in mediating the beneficial effects of RE has been confirmed by assessing its activation through the evaluation of its phosphorylation state which was significantly elevated in the presence of RE compared to the stress condition. In conclusion, the activation of the AMPK pathway enhances antioxidant defenses and promotes autophagy. This dual action, mediated by RE, helps protect skin cells from oxidative damage and senescence while maintaining proteostasis, skin integrity, and cellular proliferation under pollution-induced stress (BAP + UV-A). These findings highlight the potential in mitigating age-related skin changes through the modulation of longevity pathways. Full article

The rapid expansion of the cosmetic products market, growing consumer eco-consciousness, and stricter packaging regulations, such as the PPWR, present significant challenges for the cosmetic industry. To assess the sustainability of cosmetic packaging, a benchmarking study was conducted across various product categories available in the DACH region (Germany, Austria, and Switzerland) using a set of selected indicators. The findings highlight an urgent need for action to ensure compliance with future PPWR requirements. While glass and aluminum packaging demonstrated high recyclability, plastic tubes often failed to meet the 70% recyclability target due to incompatible material combinations. Key barriers to recyclability included material incompatibility, metallization, and excessive colorization. Additionally, the use of recycled content in plastic and paper-based packaging was generally low, with only a few samples containing secondary materials. Other critical issues included packaging efficiency, the widespread use of secondary packaging, and use of uncertified renewable materials. Addressing these challenges will require industry-wide efforts to enhance material compatibility, increase recycled content, and optimize packaging design for greater sustainability. Full article

Hyaluronic acid (HA), an integral non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan, plays a pivotal role in numerous biological functions within the extracellular matrix, crucially influencing tissue hydration and cellular activities. These findings position it as a key substance in both aesthetic interventions and regenerative medicine. This study evaluated the skin remodeling efficacy of poly(L-lactide-co-ε-caprolactone) (P(LA/CL)) threads embedded with HA particles at both the microscale (P(LA/CL)-HA-micro) and nanoscale (P(LA/CL)-HA-nano) utilizing NAMICA encapsulation technology. This investigation was conducted over a six-month period in an animal model. These threads were engineered to administer HA gradually, thereby potentially augmenting the therapeutic impacts on the skin, enhancing the bioavailability of HA, and prolonging the benefits. Methodologically, the research conformed to the ARRIVE guidelines, incorporating specific inclusion and exclusion criteria for the animal model. The threads were surgically implanted, and a series of histological indicators were evaluated at scheduled intervals to determine their influence on the structural properties of the skin. The findings indicated that both P(LA/CL)-HA-micro and P(LA/CL)-HA-nano threads demonstrated potential in skin remodeling. Notably, the P(LA/CL)-HA-nano threads may have provided some advantages in enhancing certain structural aspects of the skin. The integration of micro- and nano-HA formulations through NAMICA technology might address individual limitations and synergistically promote biorevitalization in skin remodeling. Nevertheless, the intricate interactions between the biomaterials and hosted tissue underscored in this analysis suggest that additional investigations, especially using human models, are essential to fully discern the clinical implications and refine therapeutic approaches for skin remodeling via these new technologies. Full article

Several studies have suggested that adiponectin is an anti-aging molecule based on its potential involvement of adipose tissue in skin aging. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging efficacy of an adiponectin expression-stimulating peptide derivative, pentasodium tetracarboxymethyl hexanoyl dipeptide-12 (PTHD-12), in in vitro and ex vivo human skin explant models. A double-blind, randomized, comparator placebo-controlled study was performed to confirm clinical efficacy. After irradiation with 50 mJ/cm² of UVB, a UV-induced decrease in adiponectin expression and an increase in inflammatory cytokines in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were prevented by the PTHD-12 treatment test peptide. Mitigation of cellular senescence and senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) expressions induced by UVB (50 mJ/cm²) exposure were also mitigated by the post-treatment of PTHD-12, which was also observed in an ex vivo human skin explant model. The restoration of filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin-1 protein expression in a cultured human skin explant was observed. A clinical study further confirmed that the restoration of UVB-induced skin damage, represented by increased skin redness and trans-epidermal water loss, was accelerated by the use of test peptide PTHD-12-containing products. These results suggest that targeting adiponectin may be a plausible strategy for the development of anti-aging ingredients. Full article

In recent years, an increasing demand for natural products for personal care, cosmetics, supplementation, and the treatment of different conditions has been reported worldwide. At the same time, the global essential oil (EO) market was valued at more than 23 billion per year in the last two years and is expected to grow significantly in the next five years. The purpose of this study was to explore the use of EOs in daily life, including frequency, preferences, and health-related outcomes among Bulgarian adults. The respondents and their responses remained anonymous as the survey was conducted online in January 2025. The study was associated with some important findings: usage of essential oils among Bulgarian adults is widespread (68.7% of the respondents use essential oils); secondly, we found that EO usage had a statistically greater association with younger age, higher education, and female sex. Most of the consumers of EOs did not report any side effects after use. However, 4.0% reported contact dermatitis and allergic reactions after the application of EOs. Most respondents (86.3% of the EO users) believe that repellents based on EOs provide good protection. It was established that Bulgarian adults use EOs for various applications: skin care, general wellness, aromatherapy, and as repellents. Most of the consumers of EOs would recommend EOs to other people. Full article